My Rules Questions

[lenin]

Inspired by seeing the figures in the “flesh” at Warfare, the photographs do not do them justice, and a long chat with Chris, I played a couple of solo games, one last night and one this morning, using some of my WWII collection as proxies and have the following questions/observations:

1. Is 0 on the d10 symbol 0 or 10? i’ve been playing it as 10.

2. For Reactions does the hit randomiser number need to be “less than” or “less than or equal to” the figure’s Reaction attribute? The rules do clearly state “less than” and it’s just that “less than or equal to” tends to be what most rules use.

3. The morale result on several cards is that a figure runs towards or away from the enemy. Sometimes 10” is listed as the distance, but not always, so should it always be 10” or should your draw a card for the distance if it is not specified? Also is this movement still affected by wounds, terrain, etc.?

4. The morale result on a couple of cards indicate that an individual figure is pinned and should that actually read stunned as I thought only whole teams could be pinned?

5. If a team activates on a red numbered card, but becomes pinned by the morale result on a card, should their die immediately be switched to a black one, thus ending their activation? That was how I played it.

In general I enjoyed the games and in particular using the cards for combat resolution is very quick, once you get the hang of it, which doesn’t exactly take long.

Pete

[ACP_Buck]

Inspired by seeing the figures in the “flesh” at Warfare, the photographs do not do them justice, and a long chat with Chris, I played a couple of solo games, one last night and one this morning, using some of my WWII collection as proxies and have the following questions/observations:

1. Is 0 on the d10 symbol 0 or 10? i’ve been playing it as 10.

10.  I have clarified this in the draft of the full rules.

2. For Reactions does the hit randomiser number need to be “less than” or “less than or equal to” the figure’s Reaction attribute? The rules do clearly state “less than” and it’s just that “less than or equal to” tends to be what most rules use.

Less than, as the rules state.  All of my rules use less than.  This actually started because the "less than or equal to" sign is a special character in Word and took me too long to insert every time I needed one.  Later I realized that the math is better.  One sort of interesting case is that in Blood and Swash and GASLIGHT when you are at long range, you have to roll less than HALF of your Shoot attribute to get a hit.  People always ask if you round up or down.  I tell them you don't round at all.  If your attribute was a nine, you now have to roll less than four and a half. 

3. The morale result on several cards is that a figure runs towards or away from the enemy. Sometimes 10” is listed as the distance, but not always, so should it always be 10” or should your draw a card for the distance if it is not specified? Also is this movement still affected by wounds, terrain, etc.?

If it doesn't say, you flip a card for distance.  This movement IS affected by terrain, wounds, etc.  It is NOT affected by being stunned, as the results of on the morale card trump the other rules.

4. The morale result on a couple of cards indicate that an individual figure is pinned and should that actually read stunned as I thought only whole teams could be pinned?

Can you provide serial numbers on the cards where you found this.  You are correct, individuals are stunned; units are pinned.

5. If a team activates on a red numbered card, but becomes pinned by the morale result on a card, should their die immediately be switched to a black one, thus ending their activation? That was how I played it.

The die is switched to black as soon as it makes all the morale checks.  Being pinned does not stop you from completing the morale checks, but it will end your turn once the morale checks are completed.

In general I enjoyed the games and in particular using the cards for combat resolution is very quick, once you get the hang of it, which doesn’t exactly take long.

Thanks.  I find that people need to play two or three games to really get their heads around the cards.  Sometimes people fight it a bit.  Once you do get into the concept of the cards, I believe it goes faster than most other games.  I am glad you agree.

Pete
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